Ecce Figura - Cases and hands

Paris - August 26, 2025

Behind the scenes at the Beaubleu Workshops are revealed through the production journey. A series of articles created to explain the manufacturing stages of Beaubleu watches and the challenges they pose.

In this second installment, we focus on cases and hands! Let's discover how these essential elements are shaped, designed to punctuate every second of a watch's life.

The cases

In watchmaking, the case fulfills several functions. It protects the movement, houses the dial and hands, and fits the wrist. It must therefore meet robustness and water-resistance requirements, while also playing a key role in the aesthetics of the watch.

For the Ecce Figura collection, it wasn't just a matter of changing shape, but of going against what was taken for granted. This shape, neither round nor angular, is based on a precise balance between edges and curves.

A semi-octagonal case

It all starts with a block of stainless steel, chosen for its strength, corrosion resistance, and ability to be precisely shaped. This raw material is first cut into its rough shape using a press, then pre-machined to reduce excess material before precision work.

Next comes machining, a key stage in the manufacturing process. Unlike a round case, the semi-octagonal shape of the Ecce Figura requires a strict alternation between facets and curves. Here, the machine works according to an extremely precise digital layout, drawing the eight sides of the case—neither perfectly straight nor completely angular—in a fluid and symmetrical movement.

The bezel, also machined separately, is designed with a slight concavity. It must fit onto the case with millimeter precision. This hollow acts as a light diffuser; depending on the angle, the curvature captures, absorbs, or reflects the light, creating visual effects.

Polishing and brushing: controlled light

The surface of the case never remains raw. It is worked by hand, to create a dialogue between two types of finishes: polishing, which gives a mirror effect and captures the light in its purest brilliance, and brushing, which finely streaks the metal to create more diffuse, more textured reflections.

The alternation of these two treatments creates subtle contrasts on the different sides of the case: plays of light and shadow which highlight the curves, refine the silhouette and fully contribute to the elegance of the piece.

The Beaubleu Needles

On a watch, the hand is often perceived as a detail. However, at Beaubleu, it is a signature in its own right, both graphic and symbolic.

Two types of needles

The models in the Ecce Figura collection use two types of hands, depending on the creation: steel or hand-painted, as on the Smalt.

The steel hands are crafted from very thin strips, punched and then drilled with extreme precision. Their round shape, unique to Beaubleu, requires specific machining to preserve visual balance while ensuring perfectly distributed mass. The edges are then ground, and each hand is hand-polished to obtain a smooth surface, ready for its finishing treatment.

Other models, such as the Smalt, feature a colored finish. Once polished, the needle receives several layers of lacquered pigment, meticulously applied by hand. This method allows for control over the color's density and even its uniformity. The process is repeated as many times as necessary until a perfectly smooth and uniform surface is achieved.

Finishing treatments

Two main types of finishes are applied to the steel hands: flame bluing and rose gold PVD treatment.

Among the most interesting techniques encountered in watchmaking is flame bluing. This ancient tradition is based on a very simple principle: starting at 290°C, a thin layer of oxidation forms on the surface of the steel, and it is this layer that gives it its distinctive blue hue. Each hand is heated one by one, either over a flame or on a plate, until it reaches the ideal tone—neither too light nor too dark. As soon as the perfect color appears, it is frozen by rapid cooling. The result is a deep, vibrant blue that appears to change with the light.

And then, for some pieces in the collection, another finish comes into play: PVD treatment. For some Ecce Figura models, rose gold is featured, in a modern version of plating. Under vacuum, a thin layer of carbon or titanium nitride is vaporized onto the steel. This allows for optimal adhesion and remarkable resistance to wear.

Sapphire crystal: custom cut

To perfectly match the semi-octagonal geometry of the case, the sapphire crystal used was custom-designed. Cut from blocks of synthetic sapphire, it is cut by high-precision laser, then adjusted by grinding to follow the contours of the bezel. Its rectangular, slightly curved shape requires specific polishing of the edges to avoid any tension during assembly.

Quality control

Before assembly, each case and hand are meticulously inspected. The case is checked from multiple angles to ensure smooth edges and uniform finishes. The hands, meanwhile, are checked for color and balance to ensure smooth, friction-free operation. These checks are performed manually, under a magnifying glass, before moving on to the delicate stage of final assembly.

In the next Logbook, the final assembly, where the separately designed elements find their rightful place to give birth to a Beaubleu creation. A work of balance and precision, where every gesture counts.