Ecce Figura - The Dials
Paris - July 25, 2025
Behind the scenes at the Beaubleu Workshops are revealed through the Production journey. A series of articles created to explain the manufacturing stages of Beaubleu watches and the challenges they pose.
A few weeks ago, Beaubleu unveiled Ecce Figura, the Maison's first shaped watch. Its semi-octagonal case, with its architectural allure, is adorned with a concave bezel and a delicate interplay of polished and brushed finishes that bring its six dials to life.
The dials
The dial is the first thing you see when looking at a watch. It's the surface on which the hands move. More than just a background, the dial sets the tone, the look, and the intention.
You might think it's a purely aesthetic element. However, designing a dial is a precision task, both technical and artistic. Every choice counts: the texture, the colors, the finishes, the way the indexes integrate or contrast with the material.
Two series for the Ecce Figura collection
Before adopting their unique textures, colors, or reflections, all dials are born from the same raw material: a thin sheet of brass. This metal base is carefully cut, then struck to form volumes, hollows, or flat surfaces, depending on the design's intention.
This striking stage shapes the first reliefs of the dial, which will then receive paints, varnishes, powders or inks.
Series I – Onyx, Smalt, Lys, Alba
The first series explores the theme of artistic bookbinding, of these handcrafted, often forgotten works, where each cover, each grain, tells of a discreet skill.
- Onyx and Smalt draw inspiration from wax seals: the dense shine of their lacquered dials, achieved through hand-applied layers of enamel, evokes these seals melted onto parchment paper. A deep dye is applied, followed by a varnish, and then each surface is polished to achieve maximum shine. The hollow indexes barely emerge, as if etched into the material.
- Lys opts for a grained, matte texture, reminiscent of a textured sheet of paper. This unique finish is created by applying a thick paint, a powder coating precisely sprayed onto the dial. The gesture creates an irregular surface, like the grain of old paper. The indexes blend in naturally.
- Alba , finally, plays a more graphic score. Unlike the other models, its dial is not pre-printed: the illustration is born from a direct gesture, by pad printing. A large stamp meticulously applies the ink to the light dial, drawing chiseled blue indexes, as if drawn with a pen. The absence of relief creates a smooth surface, delicately enlivened by this watchmaking calligraphy.
Series II – Sienna and Vesperal
The second series takes a more radical approach. Here, the raw material is expressed without detours.
- Sienna , in rose gold tones, and Vesperal , in brushed steel, feature dials stripped of any unnecessary ornamentation.
No superfluous details: only the surface effects – brushed, polished, textured – tell the story of the object. The dial becomes a sculpture, a total purity where each reflection is enough to make time vibrate.
Brushing involves hand-striating the material with fine, regular lines to create a pattern that subtly catches the light. This finish highlights the volumes of the semi-octagonal case and reveals changing reflections depending on the angle of the wrist. A technique that is both raw and masterful, revealing the material without artifice.
As for the indexes, they’re made of metal: carefully set into the dial, they offer a soft contrast with the brushed surface, adding depth without disrupting the overall harmony.
In the next Production journey, we’ll take a closer look at how the cases are made — from design to machining, and how a watch’s bold silhouette takes shape.